My mother was born in New Jersey and moved to So Cal in her 30s. I am sure she never heard of or tasted enchiladas until she was living in Anaheim. Last week, I decided to make her enchiladas–cheese and onion–with just a few alterations. I used four different kind of onions, chopping them all up and sauteing in a little bit of olive oil (I assume she would have used corn oil.) For the rest of the filling, I used a nice aged cheddar along with a Oaxacan string cheese. The tortillas were fresh and soft from Vallerta so I just warmed them on the gas burner, dipped in heated La Victoria enchilada sauce (my mother’s brand), quickly filled with onions and cheese and then rolled and tucked into casserole, topped with the rest of the sauce and a scattering of cheese and baked for 20 minutes in a fairly hot oven. Nothing particularly gourmet about them, but my guests loved them and I had a chance to tell a little about my mother who got a meal on the table for a husband and four kids no matter what else was going on in her life…and I now know that wasn’t always easy.